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Kevin H. Phillips

External


Since: Mar 05, 2004
Posts: 11



(Msg. 1) Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2005 9:30 am
Post subject: S2882 won't power up
Archived from groups: alt>comp>periphs>mainboard>tyan (more info?)
I've just built a machine I intend for server use with a Tyan S2882UG3NR
motherboard. The power supply is an Antec True550. I forget what the
case it but it is from the recommended list of equipment on Tyan's Web
site. I've got 3 SCSI drives connected to the "A" controller and 1GB of
RAM (two 512MB chips that are in the 1st & 2nd slots on CPU #1).


When I flip the power switch on the back of the case after plugging in
everything, the fans will make a few revolutions and then stop. Nothing
happens when I push the power switch on the front of the case. I
noticed in the motherboard manual that it mentions something to the
effect that if there is a problem powering up the board that there could
be problems with the jumper settings and to check Tyan's Web site. I
can't find any more detailed explanations about jumper settings for the
board on Tyan's Web site; maybe it is just me.

I don't know whether there is a problem with the board, the jumper
settings, PS, or something else. Does anyone have any suggestions about
jumper settings? I am not familiar with the color coding on the wires
from the cases so I'm not sure which wires are "+" and which are Gnd. I
think on the previous system I had, using a 2462 board, it specified
that the writing on the jumpers should all face the front of the case.
On the case I'm using now, the HDD LED jumper is a 3-slot connection
whereas the board only allows for 2 so I haven't connnected that jumper.

I'd appreciate any help & suggestions.

Thanks very much,
Kevin Phillips

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Jim

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Since: Oct 05, 2005
Posts: 50



(Msg. 2) Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2005 4:36 pm
Post subject: Re: S2882 won't power up [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
Kevin,

You can cut that HDD LED down to 2 pins by pulling the connector apart
and putting the wire in the second hole. I had to do that for my S2895
too. I'm not sure that is your problem, however. There are many other
variables, but this will fix *one* of your problems.

Jim

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Kevin H. Phillips

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Since: Mar 05, 2004
Posts: 11



(Msg. 3) Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 6:52 pm
Post subject: Re: S2882 won't power up [Login to view extended thread Info.]
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Jim wrote:

> Kevin,
>
> You can cut that HDD LED down to 2 pins by pulling the connector apart
> and putting the wire in the second hole. I had to do that for my S2895
> too. I'm not sure that is your problem, however. There are many other
> variables, but this will fix *one* of your problems.
>
> Jim
>
Thanks, Jim. Does the entire connector come apart? I had tried to
remove the wire by pressing on the piece of metal showing in the back of
the connector. My thinking was that it was a "catch" that would release
but I couldn't get it to do so. I didn't want to force anything I was
unfamiliar with for fear of damaging things beyond repair.

Best,
Kevin
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Jim

External


Since: Oct 05, 2005
Posts: 50



(Msg. 4) Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 7:49 am
Post subject: Re: S2882 won't power up [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
Kevin,

Unfortunately I had to destroy the three-part connector in the process.
When I pulled the wire out, it ripped through the side of the vinyl
and destroyed the third hole. However, it easily went into the second
hole. I needed to trim the connector to fit the small area where I
wanted to put it anyway, so it was no great loss. If I switch
motherboards to one which requires a 3-hole connector, then I'll have
to pull the wire out again and connect it manually. I don't think that
will be too difficult.

Good luck! Smile

Jim
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Martin Shoemaker

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Since: Nov 15, 2005
Posts: 16



(Msg. 5) Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 9:20 am
Post subject: Re: S2882 won't power up [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
There should be a molded-in tab on the side of the connector for each
sleeve location (the sleeve is the metal part in the connector that the
wire terminates in and that slips over the pin on the motherboard). The
end of the tab closest to the wires is fastened to the connector shell
and acts like a hinge. The end of the tab opposite the wires has a bump
that holds the sleeve in place. To remove the sleeve, I use a straight
pin from my wife's sewing box to gently pry the free end of the tab up,
then pull gently on the wire. Be sure to notice how the sleeve was
oriented in the connector -- you'll need to have the same orientation
when you re-insert the sleeve so that there's a recess for the tab to
catch so the sleeve will stay in the connector.

Martin

Kevin H. Phillips wrote:
> Jim wrote:
>
>> Kevin,
>>
>> You can cut that HDD LED down to 2 pins by pulling the connector apart
>> and putting the wire in the second hole. I had to do that for my S2895
>> too. I'm not sure that is your problem, however. There are many other
>> variables, but this will fix *one* of your problems.
>>
>> Jim
>>
> Thanks, Jim. Does the entire connector come apart? I had tried to
> remove the wire by pressing on the piece of metal showing in the back
> of the connector. My thinking was that it was a "catch" that would
> release but I couldn't get it to do so. I didn't want to force
> anything I was unfamiliar with for fear of damaging things beyond repair.
>
> Best,
> Kevin
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Martin Shoemaker

External


Since: Nov 15, 2005
Posts: 16



(Msg. 6) Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 9:50 am
Post subject: Re: S2882 won't power up [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
This sounds like the wires from the case's power switch may not be
properly connected to the motherboard. It's normal to see the fans
"bump" when you turn on the power switch. If the pushbutton on the
front of the case is connected correctly you'll generally see the fans
move a bit the first time you press the pushbutton, even if the system
doesn't fully start.

On the color coding, generally there will be a colored wire and a white
wire on each set of wires where polarity matters. For example, the
wires for the light for hard drives are red and white. The colored wire
always goes on the + pin. Where polarity doesn't matter there generally
isn't a white wire.

Martin

Kevin H. Phillips wrote:
> I've just built a machine I intend for server use with a Tyan
> S2882UG3NR motherboard. The power supply is an Antec True550. I
> forget what the case it but it is from the recommended list of
> equipment on Tyan's Web site. I've got 3 SCSI drives connected to the
> "A" controller and 1GB of RAM (two 512MB chips that are in the 1st &
> 2nd slots on CPU #1).
>
>
> When I flip the power switch on the back of the case after plugging in
> everything, the fans will make a few revolutions and then stop.
> Nothing happens when I push the power switch on the front of the
> case. I noticed in the motherboard manual that it mentions something
> to the effect that if there is a problem powering up the board that
> there could be problems with the jumper settings and to check Tyan's
> Web site. I can't find any more detailed explanations about jumper
> settings for the board on Tyan's Web site; maybe it is just me.
>
> I don't know whether there is a problem with the board, the jumper
> settings, PS, or something else. Does anyone have any suggestions
> about jumper settings? I am not familiar with the color coding on the
> wires from the cases so I'm not sure which wires are "+" and which are
> Gnd. I think on the previous system I had, using a 2462 board, it
> specified that the writing on the jumpers should all face the front of
> the case. On the case I'm using now, the HDD LED jumper is a 3-slot
> connection whereas the board only allows for 2 so I haven't connnected
> that jumper.
>
> I'd appreciate any help & suggestions.
>
> Thanks very much,
> Kevin Phillips
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Kevin H. Phillips

External


Since: Mar 05, 2004
Posts: 11



(Msg. 7) Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2005 10:31 am
Post subject: Re: S2882 won't power up [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
Martin Shoemaker wrote:
> There should be a molded-in tab on the side of the connector for each
> sleeve location (the sleeve is the metal part in the connector that the
> wire terminates in and that slips over the pin on the motherboard). The
> end of the tab closest to the wires is fastened to the connector shell
> and acts like a hinge. The end of the tab opposite the wires has a bump
> that holds the sleeve in place. To remove the sleeve, I use a straight
> pin from my wife's sewing box to gently pry the free end of the tab up,
> then pull gently on the wire. Be sure to notice how the sleeve was
> oriented in the connector -- you'll need to have the same orientation
> when you re-insert the sleeve so that there's a recess for the tab to
> catch so the sleeve will stay in the connector.


Thanks! That worked.

Kevin
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Kevin H. Phillips

External


Since: Mar 05, 2004
Posts: 11



(Msg. 8) Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2005 10:35 am
Post subject: Re: S2882 won't power up [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
Martin Shoemaker wrote:

> This sounds like the wires from the case's power switch may not be
> properly connected to the motherboard. It's normal to see the fans
> "bump" when you turn on the power switch. If the pushbutton on the
> front of the case is connected correctly you'll generally see the fans
> move a bit the first time you press the pushbutton, even if the system
> doesn't fully start.
> On the color coding, generally there will be a colored wire and a white
> wire on each set of wires where polarity matters. For example, the
> wires for the light for hard drives are red and white. The colored wire
> always goes on the + pin. Where polarity doesn't matter there generally
> isn't a white wire.
>

Well, this has started off as an interesting Thanksgiving! I swapped
out the Antec True550 for one of the Enhace power supplies I have. I
tried to make sure that the jumpers were connected as described. When I
first hit the power switch, it began running and I thought things were
looking up. Then I began hearing the motor running erratically. Then I
noticed smoke coming from some of the wires! I don't know what
happened but a few of the red wires (connected to the floppy drive and
to one of the drives and the one leading from the PS) just melted.
Nothing like a computer fire to start some excitement; it's better than
Macy's parade! I had another Enhance PS on hand so I installed that.
The fans will "bump" but that's all. I tried switching the power switch
jumper but still got no response. Tomorrow when BestBuy is open (the
only thing around here that passes for a "computer store") I'll go see
if they happen to have an EPS-12 compatible PS in stock.

Kevin
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